The San Juan Mountain range is one of the most geologically diverse mountain ranges in the world. Located in southwest Colorado in the Rocky Mountains within Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and San Juan National Forest lands, it contains not only the largest designated wilderness area in the southern Rockies, the 500,000-acre Weminuche Wilderness, but also the largest remaining unprotected roadless area, the 150,000-acre Hermosa watershed. The San Juans boast amazing geology and incredible biodiversity, as well as exceptional primitive recreational opportunities. Several distinct wilderness advocacy campaigns are underway to achieve lasting protection for additional areas, focused on Hermosa and the Dolores River basin.
Local conservationists are engaged in a community collaboration to develop a consensus package of protections for Hermosa, wrapping wilderness and wild and scenic river designation within a larger National Conservation Area. Hermosa is characterized by a variety of geological processes dating back some 2,000 million years that have contributed to the formation of the spectacular landscape of the region. Some of the area’s colorful scenery owes its beauty to the marine sediments that include crimson red shale, sandstone, and limestone laid down some 250 million years ago, which was followed by glacial activity that carved the valleys, jagged peaks, ridges, and cirques we see today. Metamorphic rock complexes and volcanism also played a hand in creating parts of this landscape.
A softer side can also be found within this rugged landscape. In the summer months, a kaleidoscope of colors plays out across the Hermosa’s alpine fields. Indian paintbrush, columbines, buttercups, and lupine are among the wildflowers that fill the meadows with vivid yellows, blues, reds and whites in July and August. Also covering these mountains and valleys are some of the most diverse and rare stands of trees in all of the San Juan National Forest. Numerous old-growth stands of spruce-fir, and some of the highest quality stands of old-growth ponderosa pine in the San Juan Mountains are harbored here. Many ponderosa pine are well over 250 years old and exceed three feet in diameter. The ponderosa’s unique cork-like bark appears to emit a red glow in the late afternoon sunlight. Other vegetation in the area include dense shrub such as Gambel’s oak on dried slopes, while wetter slopes are typically covered with a mix of Douglas fir, aspen, and white fir. Riparian zones are often dominated by lush willow, and frequently include stands of blue spruce. At some of the lowest elevations there are open grasslands with scattered ponderosas, pinyon-juniper, and scrub oak.
The old-growth ponderosa pine and other forested areas are prime habitat for mule deer, elk, black bear, mountain lions, lynx, wolverine, the flammulated owl, and other raptors. Some rivers support healthy populations of Colorado cutthroat trout and the reintroduced river otter.
Although 480,000 acres of the San Juan National Forest were previously designated wilderness, there are several critical landscape linkages requiring protection. Scattered wilderness areas alone are not enough to protect the habitat of the many large mammals that make their home in the area. Roads and clearcuts fragment the landscape, isolating wide-ranging species into habitats too small for viable populations to survive. In addition, the existing wilderness is largely focused on the Continental Divide and the high peaks of the San Juans. Pending wilderness proposals for Hermosa and other roadless areas would significantly diversify wilderness protection to lower elevation, forested ecosystems.
As one would expect, an area this diverse provides abundant opportunities for primitive recreation. A network of trails allows backcountry horsemen and hikers to explore miles of wilderness and access great fishing holes and hunting locations. The Dolores River offers some of the best whitewater rafting in Colorado, and climbing enthusiasts will find numerous fourteen-thousand-foot peaks to scale. Those seeking solitude might consider camping along a scenic shore of one of the many mountain lakes or hiking in the San Miguel area and taking in the spectacular setting. A pending package of wilderness proposals would combine expanded protection of the fourteeners with desert canyonlands lower in the Dolores River basin.
Despite the area’s beauty and ecological significance, it is at risk for development. Several areas contain mineral and uranium deposits and deposits of methane and natural gas.
Fortunately, conservationists are working to protect this special area — The San Juan Citizens Alliance has been reaching out to residents of the region, listening to concerns, and gathering support to develop a proposal that suits local interests and protects this fine wild country and the fragile ecosystems within. The group would like to see the current wilderness areas connected, in order to provide migration routes and corridors for elk and other animals, as well as provide suitable, well-connected habitat favored by other mammals with a large home range. No single area in the San Juans can currently offer this — another key reason to add these areas to our national wilderness protection system.
Protecting this area will also help keep the water clean and ensure that the air quality in the area remains some of the best in the nation. Protecting critical riparian areas are essential to biological diversity and healthy ecosystems, improving water quality and providing critical habitat for species of fish, birds, and other animals, and are critical to bringing back a sustainable population of native Colorado Cutthroat Trout.
These natural treasures will not be protected without local support, and the San Juan Citizens Alliance is building just that. Thanks to their work, this area may someday soon win additional wilderness protection, so we can continue to live, work, and play in harmony with the native species in this wild habitat.
