Standing on the summit of 10,824 foot ‘Big Sammy' we are at the highest viewpoint accessible by trail in the Emigrant Wilderness and the 360 degree panorama of mountains, meadows and lakes has made the rugged six mile path from Leavitt Lake worth the trek. Stretched out below us is the Emigrant Basin, a bright blanket of blues, yellows and greens shining in the summer sun. It was a welcoming site after climbing the steep desolate slopes of Leavitt Lake Pass and Big Sam, the two mountains in the north responsible for guarding this magnificent Garden of Eden. The intimidating calloused peaks have done their job well, and few enter into the wilderness from this route. Yet my friends and I had conquered these monsters before and knew it was the quickest route into the heart of the Emigrant Wilderness.

Starting from Leavitt Lake, a remote alpine lake nestled at an elevation of 9,600 ft. on the eastern slope of Sonora Pass, we began our grueling trek. Our trail, an abandoned mining road, switchbacked up the steep slopes, slowly leading us away from the sparse clusters of white bark pines surrounding the lake into a barren, windblown terrain offering little vegetation. Carved into the mountainside in 1943, long before the area was designated a wilderness, this 18-mile road was constructed to reach the remote Montezuma and Cherry Creek tungsten mines, which produced the much needed mineral used during World War ll. Although the Wilderness Act of 1975 gave protection to most of the Emigrant Basin, it wasn't until 1984 that the tungsten-mining strip along the Yosemite Park border was added to the wilderness, and the remains of these mines, especially the road, are visible today. Yet this road is just one of several routes leading into this pristine wilderness, and trailheads begin at Shingle Spring near Cherry Lake, Box Spring and Bourland Meadow outside of Long Barn, Aspen Meadow, Bell Meadow, Crabtree Camp and Gianelli Cabin off of Dodge Ridge Road, Coyote Meadow, Eagle Meadow, Kennedy Meadow and Sonora Pass off of Highway 108, as well as access through the Toiyabe National Forest and Yosemite National Park. The most popular of these are Kennedy and Aspen Meadows, which also offer pack trips for those interested in entering the wilderness on horseback - a fine choice for long trips and for those looking to lighten their load.

However, this trip, like most of our outings, was on foot and we were eager to enjoy the fruits of our labors. From our perch on top of Sammy we gazed into the beautiful basin and could see at least a half dozen of the over 80 named lakes scattered throughout the 118,000-acre wilderness. With the wild wind whipping the mountain crest, we didn't linger long and continued down the eroding, avalanche-riddled road, excited to cast our lines into the beckoning alpine lagoons. Descending over 1,000 feet down Sammy's southern slope, in nearly a dozen giant switchbacks, we eventually reached the foot of the burdensome beast. Finally, after miles of wandering through the high dusty desert we reached the promised land...and life was abundant!

Cutting through a spongy green meadow, we were greeted by a riot of wildflowers displaying a rainbow of colors that couldn't be seen from the distant summit. Petals of purple, pink, red, orange and white added a bright contrast to the surrounding green and yellow meadows and dark blue alpine lakes. Yet the magnificent mountain bouquet couldn't compete with the underwater treasures and it wasn't long before we threw off our packs along the shore of High Emigrant Lake and cast our lures into the tropical-looking liquid. The quaint 14-acre lake is home to beautiful rainbow trout, thanks to the rock dam constructed at the outlet allowing water to be stored all year long. This dam is one of the many that were constructed during the 1930s to ensure that the streams below would run year long and support a healthy fish habitat. In all, 16 check dams were constructed in the wilderness allowing all the forks of Cherry Creek to flow throughout the later part of summer and permitting trout to be planted in waters that were once barren - creating some of the best fishing in the Sierra. Unfortunately, vandals have destroyed sections of these dams, lowering the water levels and destroying the beauty that the wilderness is known for.

Having hiked about nine-miles to reach this resourcefully dammed lake, we decided to keep our packs off, and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing by the water's edge. Not far from the lake's outlet, a gnarled barricade of white bark pines provided a perfect camping spot as well as shelter from the wind. Stretched out in our sleeping bags at an elevation of 9,706 feet on a nearly moonless night, the sky was just as spectacular as the splendor that surrounded us in the daylight.

We awoke at dawn and nothing had changed; the same beauty in which we had fallen asleep surrounded us - and it probably wasn't much different than the beauty the emigrants had slept in over 150 years ago. Less than a mile from our camp was Emigrant Pass, a pass along the route used by the first emigrants who entered the Emigrant/Yosemite Sierra in 1841. A wagon train composed of the Bartleson/Bidwell party left Missouri that year in hopes of reaching California. Unfortunately, by October the party of 60 or so people had to abandon their wagons at the foot of the Sierra and were forced to continue up the Walker River basin on foot and on horses, crossing the Sierra crest somewhere in the vicinity of Emigrant Pass. Watching over this pass like an ancient crumbling castle, towers the weathered remains of Grizzly Peak, an intriguing volcanic remnant colored with unusual streaks of white and red amidst the daunting gray and black. Yet soon many were passing beneath this landmark peak, as the trail over the pass became a popular route in the early 1850s. Between 1851 and 1853 it is said that about 485 people, 135 wagons and 3,000 cattle passed through this section of wilderness. Today, however, it is safe to say that this route has lost its popularity, and there are sections of this wilderness where you won't encounter another soul for days!

After packing up camp we hiked cross-country along the stream flowing from the outlet of High Emigrant Lake, the birthplace of the North Fork of Cherry Creek. It was only a few miles downhill to our destination, Emigrant Lake, but we took our time fishing the beautiful Emigrant Meadow Lake and Middle Emigrant Lake where the trickling north fork was dammed up in deep blue puddles. By the time we reached the heart of the wilderness, Emigrant Lake, we had descended nearly 1,000 feet in elevation and had caught well over a dozen rainbow and brook trout. But our fishing fantasies had just begun as we stood in front of the long and narrow sea-like lake. Resting at an elevation of 8,827 feet, it is the largest natural body of water in the Emigrant Wilderness or Yosemite and one could spend the better part of a day fishing around the 2 1/2-mile long lake.

Setting up a base camp in a grove of trees not far from the inlet to this massive lake we spent the next few days exploring the network of creeks and trails stemming like veins and arteries from the heart of this flourishing wilderness. Day hikes took us in all directions to sparkling lakes and lush meadows. Some of these nearby mountain gems are Buck Meadows, Buck Lakes, Shallow Lake, W Lake, Fraser Lakes, Maxwell Lake, Horse Meadow, Black Bear Lake and Blackbird Lake.

Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end, and before we knew it, it was time to retrace our steps and return to reality - a reality of cars and buildings and crowds and trash. But it is this reality that makes the Emigrant Wilderness so special. It is the reality of knowing that there are places where one can find refuge and retreat to places of peace and solitude that keep us coming back. It is the anticipation of the next trip that makes the wilderness so wonderful - and once you've tasted and seen that it is good, it is impossible not to return. Whether it takes days, months or years, you can always be assured that the beauty will never fade and the wild will always be waiting with welcoming arms...